Deutz injection pump removal

This Tech Tip focuses on installing the unit injection pumps on Deutz and engines. The only tool you will need to purchase, is an adjusting pin for the injection pump control rod. This tool is very inexpensive and is shown above. You should also invest in a Deutz workshop manualwhich we can email to you. For more information on Deutz and engine injection pump installation check out this Deutz Tech Bulletin. As an active measure to protect the health of our customers and staff in response to the coronavirus COVIDFoley Engines is operating at a reduced staff.

However, we are still open and shipping every day. We will continue to follow guidelines provided by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention CDCand the Massachusetts State and City of Worcester health departments and will update our website as often as we can.

Sign up to get news and specials from us! You can revoke your consent to receive emails at any time by using theunsubscribe link, found at the bottom of every email. First things first, please remember to install these pumps one pump at a time, not all at once.

Press on the end of fuel rack behind from cover right above camshaft to ensure that rack is moving back and forth freely with your old two pumps installed.

Installing a Diesel Injection Pump & Setting the Timing

If moving freely, compress the rack just a little bit until you can line up the hole in the rack to the pin hole for the pin. Screw in the pin just enough so that the rack is no longer moving freely and is now locked into place.

With the roller tappet installed in the new injection pump hole, you will want to rotate the crankshaft until this tappet is resting as far down as it can go. You can place your fingertip into the hole right on top of this tappet to gauge the depth as you rotate the crankshaft. Once you find the lowest resting position on the camshaft, you will then install your shim followed by your injection pump.

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Tighten down injection pump to block. Once torqued down, you will then want to pull the finger-loop pin out of the injection pump this pin should have been pre-installed into the injection pump that was purchased from us. The removal of this long pin out of the injection pump will engage this pump into the rack and synchronize with remaining injection pumps.

Injection System

Once you have removed the pin from the injection pump, you will then want to unscrew the pin to unlock the fuel rack and allow it travel freely once again. Be sure to test and ensure that rack is moving freely and not sticking. Re-plug the timing hole with the original bolt removed from this hole.

Move onto the next pump in sequence. Post Views: Posted in DeutzTech Tips and tagged Deutzdeutz engine partstiming belt kit.

First Name. This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.Show 40 post s from this thread on one page Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last Jump to page:. We've got a water pump power unit that has a deutz engine and the mechanic things he has the inj pump timed correctly.

We can find the dot onthe inj pump drive gear. Unit starts. Sounds like the engine is overfueling for some reason. With new injectors that shouldn't happen. However, I have had new fuel injector needles stick and this has caused a steady flow of fuel instead of a spray. Might be worth checking each injector out for confirmation. Lack of air into cylinders - any obstructions if airways reducing air flow? Fuel pump out of adjustment? Has a compression test been done on all cylinders?

Sorry can't be more help. Just some thoughts that might help, though they should be ovious. I worked on these engines for 6 years, conducted service schools, yada yada. It has been a while, that was in the late 70's and early 80's The is the turbo version of the series.

The came in 3,4,5,6 cylinders engines.

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The 5 cylinder were even pump in some box vans. All of these were air cooled of course, the L in the model number means Luf or something, german for Air. I think the F meant "mobile" type engine. Deutz made some VERY large engines. I recall the B meaning turbo.As with Tech Tip 58 what follows focuses on Perkins, Deutz, John Deere, and Cummins fuel systems but will have use in bleeding most any high-pressure diesel fuel injection system.

If you are still having problems, call our Service Department and they can walk you through this process and get a Workshop Manual right out to you. If you are in a hurry we can Next Day Air you remanufactured exchange Perkins, Deere, Deutz and Cummins, fuel injection pumps and injectors. If you would like, we can always pick up your pump and injectors with a UPS Call Tag to service them.

As an active measure to protect the health of our customers and staff in response to the coronavirus COVIDFoley Engines is operating at a reduced staff. However, we are still open and shipping every day.

We will continue to follow guidelines provided by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention CDCand the Massachusetts State and City of Worcester health departments and will update our website as often as we can. Sign up to get news and specials from us! You can revoke your consent to receive emails at any time by using theunsubscribe link, found at the bottom of every email.

The usual Lucas, Iskra or Delco starter motor as used on a Perkins or Duetz diesel is designed to run for only 30 seconds at a time. While 30 seconds of cranking may seem too short, it is quite a long time when actually doing it.

Then rest it for two minutes to avoid overheating. It would be a shame to ruin a starter motor over a temporarily air-locked fuel system. Like starter motors, starting batteries can be quickly discharged. Maybe even beyond recovery. If your battery is weak and you are charging the battery as you bleed the fuel system, do it carefully. The price of gel cells batteries is going down but they are still expensive. We use Optima gel cell deep cycle batteries in all of our field service trucks because they resist vibration and can be recharged up to times after total discharge.

Given the total life cycle cost of a battery, our people think that gel cells are a no-brainer. Accordingly, we have them in stock and ready to ship to customers.

Outboard Primer Ball. For really severe cases where you have fuel up to but not through the injection pump, you can use an the primer ball from an outboard engine. Put the suction end on a fuel outlet of the injection pump and use the primer ball to suck fuel through out of the pump while turning over the engine.

Outboard Primer Balls, Part Two. Simply hook up the suction line to the barb on the bottom of the water separator and squeeze the ball. Remember, keeping fuel in and water and air out is the name of the game. Power Bleeding.

Tech Tip #82: Bleeding Perkins, Deutz, and Deere Fuel Systems (Part 2)

Again, for severe cases, crack one line and then turn over the engine getting it to run. Let run for about 20 seconds with a line open at the injector. When this line squirts a steady stream of fuel, close the line. Caution: be careful where the diesel fuel lands and avoid starting a fire on a hot engine block. Yes, the engine will sound like the hammers of hell while doing this but this gets the job done.Close search.

Call Us Today at Removal All Stanadyne DB4 and most DB2 injection pumps will have a retained drive shaft the shaft stays in the pump when the pump is removed from engine. Clean the exterior of the injection pump and mounting surfaces. Doing so may cause seizure of the injection pump.

Disconnect shut-off cable and speed control linkage, if equipped.

deutz injection pump removal

Disconnect electrical connection to shut-off solenoid or throttle positioning solenoid, if equipped. Disconnect cold start switch, if equipped.

Installation Instructions

Tag electrical wires for correct reassembly. Disconnect all high-pressure injection lines. Disconnect fuel return line and fuel supply line. Remove injection pump drive gear cover. Remove drive gear retaining nut and washer from end of pump shaft.

Be careful not to let the washer fall inside timing gear cover. NOTE: The injection pump drive gear fits snugly onto a tapered drive shaft and is indexed by a hollow pin or Woodruff key installed in drive shaft. Use a gear puller to remove the drive gear from the tapered shaft. Be careful to not damage the end of the injection pump drive shaft.

Check to make sure marks are present and lined up on both the pump mounting flange B and on the front cover A. If the timing mark is not clearly visible, scribe a line on the front cover that matches the timing line on the injection pump. Remove the injection pump mounting nuts and remove the injection pump from the mounting. Pump should sit squarely and solidly on mounting pad when slight pressure is applied.

With the pump shaft index pin properly engaged in the drive gear key slot, finger-tighten mounting stud nuts. Push pump drive gear firmly onto shaft taper. Install washer and retaining nut C onto end of shaft. Tighten retaining nut to the specified torque, per your engine service manual.

Install access cover plate using a new O-ring, if needed. Align timing mark on pump flange with timing mark on front plate. Then install the injection lines, but leave the injector ends loose. Reconnect the fuel inlet and return line, leaving the inlet line loose for bleeding procedures.

Reconnect the shutoff solenoid if equipped.Pigroast uncertainty What are your thoughts? Started by Jerry on Sawmills and Milling.

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Tech Tip #82: Bleeding Perkins, Deutz, and Deere Fuel Systems (Part 2)

Send this topic Print. They all had some carbon buildup and 3 seemed a bit damp. I might have them back by the end of week but more likely the 1st part of next week. I did check for leaks in the fuel and didn't find any visible so I sprayed them with ether with the engine running.

Hopefully just having the injectors serviced fixes the problem. Doppelganger member Posts: 12 Location: Kiwi land Land of the long white cloud.

You might want to give a compression test and check the tappet settings if there is nothing seriously wrong with the injector.

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Tight tappets will give a miss at higher PRM's. Check cylinder studs are tighten to the correct preasure. I want to check the compression before I put the injectors back in if I can find an adapter. I've got a Sun tester and adapter for a range of engines but Deutz isn't one of them.

If you can come up with an old injector you can take it apart and gut it then weld or braze a fitting on that fits your compression guage. If you can't find an injector to make a compression adaptor you can reinstall the injectors.

deutz injection pump removal

At this point you know which cly it is and you will likely find the fire ring to be cracked resulting in the low compression. As you break the injection lines off the fuel should "bounce" up 6 to 8 inches, if the fuel just runs out around the nut you could have fuel pump issues unlikely though as a fuel pump issue seldom causes the white blue smoke you speak of.

I have seen this issue many times on a duetz.Forum Rules. Home Forums Reviews Articles Store. Homepage Today's Posts Search Register. Forgot your Password? Sign Up. Remember Me?

deutz injection pump removal

Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 10 of We can find the dot onthe inj pump drive gear. Unit starts. Reply With Quote. Re: timing marks on deutz injection pump Sounds like the engine is overfueling for some reason. With new injectors that shouldn't happen. However, I have had new fuel injector needles stick and this has caused a steady flow of fuel instead of a spray. Might be worth checking each injector out for confirmation. Lack of air into cylinders - any obstructions if airways reducing air flow?

Fuel pump out of adjustment? Has a compression test been done on all cylinders? Sorry can't be more help. Just some thoughts that might help, though they should be ovious. Re: timing marks on deutz injection pump sounds like something still in the pump or air in the system.

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I worked on these engines for 6 years, conducted service schools, yada yada. It has been a while, that was in the late 70's and early 80's The is the turbo version of the series. The came in 3,4,5,6 cylinders engines.

The 5 cylinder were even pump in some box vans. All of these were air cooled of course, the L in the model number means Luf or something, german for Air. I think the F meant "mobile" type engine. Deutz made some VERY large engines.

I recall the B meaning turbo. I don't recall any marks on the pump gear. You may notice the slots on the pump gear. These engines were made for all apps and hp settings. The "factory" way to time these engines were to find absolute TDC using a block under the 1 valve it is a process, 1 is closest to the flywheel BTW.

Then calculate the timing and mark the main pulley on the front of the crank.

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Then use a site glass a service device on the Bosch pump primed with fuelto observe the fuel movement. The factory also had a special pointing device to use to find TDC instead of the roll pin at the top of the crank gear pulley. Actually this process is simular to my Kubota timing. Except my Deutz site glass would not fit on my Kubota. If you don't have all this when you pull the pump DO NOT turn the engine over and be careful to not let the gear fall.

Then realign the stains on the pump flange to the gear slots. It does work in a pinch.We got a skidloader at a sale over the weekend and recently my dad picked up filters and oil in his work travels so we can change the fluids. Anyhow, they started on it while I was away today and got along fine until after they changed the fuel filter Took the old one off, filled the new one with fuel and spun it on Engine wouldn't run.

We got fuel to the filter, past it to the pump, now here is where we aren't too clear on what is happening as I never seen another diesel quite like this little Deutz It has the injectors operating off a cam of some sort along the block, with the lines running up to the injectors on the head itself We got fuel supply to each of them, but with all the lines off we have nothing going to the injectors themselves?

I don't understand why I think its something to do with the electric fuel shut off, because it is out on the front of the engine away from any fuel near this cam which I assume is belt driven? Does anyone know what or how I can troubleshoot further?

We don't have a service manual for this machine and none of us have been around Deutz's much, other than me with irrigation engines and that isn't all that much. I'd hate to tear stuff down because its probably something totally stupid we're missing. Any idea what model Deutz engine this is? Perhaps an F3L or F4L?

If so I have found them to be a pain to bleed air from. The ones we have are equipped with a cam driven transfer pump that pumps fuel from the tank thru the filters to the main pump. On most engines Cat, Deere, IH, for example the air can be bled thru the main pump and expelled by loosening the tubing nuts at the injectors. Not so with the Deutz. What works for me is to loosen the hex head stud on the banjo fitting where the fuel line from the transfer pump enters the main pump.

deutz injection pump removal

Then use the lever on the transfer pump to force air trapped in the filter out thru this loosened connection. Then tighten the stud on the banjo fitting and use the lever on the transfer to charge the main pump with fuel.

We drilled and tapped the hex head on the stud I have referred to to accomodate a radiator drain fitting to bleed air without having to break the stud loose. Hope this helps. The deutz is a very good motor, but it can be tempermental with the fuel system. Was it running before the filters were replaced? Make sure you have good fuel flow through the filter to the pump. You may need to bleed it at the injectors. Loosen the injector lines and you should have fuel squirting out.

Some of these have a manual prime pump, which has an internal screen that may need looked at. Keep trying and good luck. The 3 "injectors as you call them" are actually the injection pumps each cylinder has its own the injectors are in the head your problem is some of these had a murphy system in them there is a blue wire that runs down seperate of the wiring harness from cab and goes to the fuel shutoff solenoid. If it does not have this wire then it is a red wire down to the solenoid the solenoid controls the shut off mechanism on the 3 pumps you can also check the plug on the solenoid as it likes to come loose the solenoid is next to the battery it is round there are no bleeders on this engine you should be nicer to people when you reply to a post they made in the past they could help you in the future!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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